First image by Fanny van Poppel, second and third image by JadePillar.com
Remember me wearing those amazing shoes last Sunday? During the
Dutch Design Week, I got the chance to interview the constructor of these shoes: upcoming shoe and accessories designer Chris van den Elzen. Let me take you through part of our conversation.
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DESIGN ACADEMY, FASHION WEEK AND UNITED NUDE
Chris | The
reason I find shoes so interesting to design is that they complete an outfit.
They can either make or break it and are a defining feature for a look. When I
showed my Excidium collection – in collaboration with Judith van Vliet – at the
Fashionclash festival, I met designers Bregje Cox and Joelle Boers. They were
planning their show for the Amsterdam Fashion Week and found that my designs
fitted perfectly with their IINUA collection. Together we showed at the
Amsterdam Fashion Week a few weeks later, something that was a great experience
for me.
Floor | Let
me take you back to the beginning of your career. I read you went to the Design Academy here in
Eindhoven. Did you go there to become a shoe designer or did you discover that
passion later in your studies?
Chris | It
actually all started with an assignment for Piet Paris at school. We were asked
to design a shoe, made out of wood, foam and a fabric of choice. The design had
to be due in a week, but it all worked out really well and in the process of designing
that shoe I found out that this might well be what I wanted to become as a
designer. It was like everything came together at once.
Floor |
Cool! But that also means that your work before that assignment consisted of
other kinds of designs.
Chris | Yes
it did! I studied Identity at the Design Academy and was educated in designing
materials for fashion and interior designs. That means that you are asked to
develop material for tables as well as creating new ways of stitching for
example. But I soon realized that I not only wanted to develop new materials, I
also wanted to design a product. Funny fact is that I actually graduated with a
line of leather tiles and a material research, as there was not an option to
graduate with shoes. After the Piet Paris assignment I knew that I wanted to
design shoes though.
Floor | And
therefore you applied for an internship at United Nude. Such a cool place to
work. How did you get in?
Chris
| Well, I just applied and after an
interview on Skype with Rem Koolhaas, I was hired. An amazing turn of events
since architecture is one of my all-time inspirations, as well as that of the
brand.
Floor | You
worked on the 90 degrees shoe at United Nude, a really innovative design. Did
you like working in a team or would you rather design for your own label?
Chris | No,
I really liked working in team, but would of course like to design for my own
brand too. If I can combine those two in the future, that would be a dream.
CHINA AND THE LOVE FOR MINIMALIST DESIGN
Floor | How
important is decoration in relation to your love for minimalist design?
Chris |
Every element of the shoe has to be functional. Decoration just for the sake of
decoration is not my style. Sometimes though, a design needs a little
decoration in order to emphasize its distinguishing features. My rule in
decorating though, is that it has to be as minimalistic as possible.
That means
that the decoration in my shoes is often in the use of materials. For the
Excidium collection, I used the 3D printing technique. As I find the look and
feel of 3D printed objects a little too plastic most of the time, I decided to
team up with colorFabb and use an emulsion of timber and PLA. Combined with
using a larger than usual nozzle when printing, it created the wood like feel
that the sole has. The little Perspex plates that I used in the heels are also
functional. They actually make sure that the heel does not collapse under
pressure.
Floor | So
they are actually architectural little masterpieces! Where does your love for
architecture come from?
Chris | I
guess my stay in China has influenced me a lot. Those huge buildings and
skyscrapers are overwhelming and stand out in their repetitive design. What I
found was cool to see though, is that life breaks through that repetitiveness.
People decorate their homes differently and dry their laundry on a rack outside
of their window at 400 meters high for example. It is just crazy – especially
when they are hanging out of the window to get that laundry at such height - but
inspiring to see. It really changes your perspective on life, both
aesthetically as socially.
Floor | How
much do you love shoes and accessories? I mean, how much are you willing to
give to pursue a successful career in designing those?
Chris |
Where do I begin…Is it enough to say that I also have a pretty boring daytime
job on the side, in order to pay for the production of my designs? That job
allows me to really stay focussed on designing, instead of on the financial
side of things. Every euro that I do not spend on rent or food goes into my
label. I really hope that soon, my designs will earn me enough money to pay for
the life basics though.
Floor | And
I am pretty sure that will happen soon. Trust me, I have an eye for talent. ;-)
Chris |
Well, if business will do as well as the critiques are lately I guess I will be
fine. Recently, I was mentioned in an article alongside Iris van Herpen and
Winde Rienstra. Such an honour. Those two are really an inspiration to me.
Floor | I
guess that is because all three of you have this innovative use of materials,
don’t you?
Chris |
Yeah, that might probably be it. Those mentions are so important though, especially
in the career of young designers. It gives me the confidence to approach
investors for example. Something that I am working on currently. I cannot tell
you too much about that yet, but I can say that great things are coming...
Floor | To
conclude this interview, tell me about your dreams!
Chris | I
really hope to show two more collections at the Amsterdam fashion week and
after that we will see what happens. I would love to work on a commercial
collection for a brand and combine it with designing for my own label. But who
knows what will happen in the future?!
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So for all of you who had not heard from Chris' work before, check out his website a.s.a.p. And for Chris, thank you so much for taking the time to talk to me. It really was so much fun meeting you and I wish you all the best in your future career.
Happy Sunday!
-xoxo-
JP
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